|
Everything you'll need
for application: |
You
Provide
1. Masking Tape
2. Straightedge or
level
3. Pencil/eraser
4. Scissors |
We Provide
1. Lettering
2. Wooden
Applicator
3. Printed
"Detailed Instructions" |
Copyright © 2005
Mosaic Enterprises, LLC.
Applying vinyl lettering is easy,
and no prior experience is required! Most installations take
less than 30 minutes to complete! The following 5 steps
give a quick overview of the application process. (Detailed
steps included further below)
How to Apply Your Lettering
- Detailed Instructions
(1) Create a
reference line and hang lettering strip.
(2) Flip lettering
up and remove backing paper.
(3) Flip lettering
back down and press lettering to the wall.
(4) Remove
transfer tape leaving lettering in place.
(5) Step back and
enjoy!
"Segmenting" A Long Lettering
Installation
(2) For
ease of application this step is important! With the
lettering on a smooth surface (facing up & readable) take the
included wooden applicator and with an edge rub it with moderate
force across the lettering several times. When you're done
working horizontally, rub the lettering top to bottom as well.
You can't do this too much!
Hint: Your lettering strip is
made up of 3 layers. The top semi-transparent layer
(called the "transfer tape") must be securely adhered to the
lettering underneath (middle layer) to easily remove the
lettering from the stiff, waxy feeling, white backing paper
(bottom layer).
(3) Choose
a smooth, dry, dust-free, and grease-free location to install
your lettering. With a straight-edge of some sort (it
could be a level as pictured) and a pencil, make two small
reference marks at least 12 inches apart (as the width of your
lettering permits). These marks will serve as your "level
reference line" and will align with the top edge of your
lettering strip. If you don't want to write on your
wall, two pieces of tape can be used to mark your reference line
as well.
(1) When your
lettering arrives and you remove it from the box, you'll notice it
comes in a single horizontal strip rolled up (pictured). You
will also receive a wooden applicator (pictured), and a printed copy
of these Detailed Instructions you're about to read (not pictured).
(4) Once you
have your "level reference marks", align the
top of the strip
with your reference marks (
don't align your reference marks
with the bottom of the strip). Use multiple horizontal pieces
of tape to create a "hinge" for your lettering (as pictured).
Hint: Careful when erasing your
reference marks, too much erasing can leave a shiny spot on your
wall.
If your lettering string is longer than 3 feet,
click here for some important tips on
"segmenting" the installation job.
(5) Gripping
the lettering from the bottom, swing the strip up 180 degrees on the
masking tape "hinge" you just created. When you're finished
the strip should be upside down, flat against the wall with the
white waxy backing paper facing you.
(6) Starting
from the upper left corner separate the waxy backing paper from the
transfer tape/lettering by peeling down and to your right while
holding the transfer tape/lettering up with your other hand as
pictured.
(7) Once you
have completely removed the backing paper, let your lettering swing
180 degrees back down so the adhesive side of the lettering is
resting lightly against the wall. Starting at the top side of
the strip in the middle, press your lettering to the wall top
to bottom.
(8) Next,
continue passing over the lettering with the wooden applicator top
to bottom while angling to the right (follow the direction of the
arrows starting in the middle and moving to the right.)
(9) Do the same
thing, top to bottom, starting from the middle and angling downward
and to the left.
(10) Now take a
few moments to go over your lettering while the transfer tape is
still in place, pressing it firmly to the wall with your hands
and/or application tool.
Hint: The sample lettering pictured
is being applied to a lightly textured wall. For walls with
light to moderate texture use your hands and fingers instead of
the wooden applicator to press your lettering to the wall. The
softer, more pliable surface of your fingers will cause the
lettering to better follow and adhere to the contours of the
textured wall. For smooth surfaces the wooden applicator is
the ideal tool.
(11) Remove the
masking tape "hinge" and prepare to remove the transfer tape.
Starting on the left (pictured) or right grip the corner of the
transfer tape and begin peeling down at roughly a 90 degree angle.
Watch carefully as you peel to make sure the letters stay adhered to
the wall. If the transfer tape begins to pull a letter off,
carefully press the letter and transfer tape back on the wall
at that specific point. Apply additional pressure to
strengthen the bond between the letter adhesive and the wall.
Begin peeling again repeating the re-sticking step if necessary.
(12) As you
removed the transfer tape in the previous step, it may have loosened
the adhesion of some of the letters on the wall. Your final
task is to lightly tap/press the lettering (particularly the
lettering edges) to the wall with your fingers. Don't slide
your fingers as this can cause the lettering to catch on your finger
and begin to peel up. Let your fingers press and jump (not
slide) from spot to spot. If you are applying lettering to a
smooth surface, it is appropriate in this final step to slide the
wooden applicator slowly and with light force across the lettering .
Now step back and enjoy!
Now step back and enjoy!
Here we have a lettering strip that is 127 inches
(about 10.5 feet) long. Trying to remove the backing from the
entire strip at once would be a problem. Segmenting the job is
the answer.
After the lettering strip is taped
in place with multiple pieces of tape, you can take scissors and cut
between words at regular intervals (see the dotted lines).
Make sure that each segment has at least 2 tape "hinges" to support
it. Now you've broken one long job into multiple smaller jobs
and you simply need to follow all the standard application steps outlined above for each
segment individually.
Hint: It's
very important that as you remove the backing from each
segment you don't pull the tape "hinges" off the wall. Those
"hinges" are keeping each segment aligned with it's neighbors.
If you pull one off you'll have to hold the segment in place and
re-tape it aligning it by eye. This can be challenging, so
it's best to use plenty of tape and create various tape "hinges" for
each segment to keep them firmly in place. Two pieces per
segment is the minimum needed.